The Motherload Blog

When do you decide to let your vehicle die? At what point does the fork in the road become clear? I was hopeful it would be clear after I finished paying my car off, but now I am not even hopeful that we can even make it that far. This is the closest I have ever been to owning a car, and now I am just hoping that it lasts until my last payment is over.

I have heard some squeaking going on for a long time, and we had decided it was most likely the brakes. But then we had just replaced the front brakes, so this theory wasn’t making any sense at all. I was still hopeful it was just the brakes so we figured we would replace these after the holiday season.

Then we started to hear a sound like something was dragging under the car. Ryan assured me it was probably packed ice underneath, from all of our snow, so we decided to go with that theory. After all, it was the cheapest!

My car sat in the garage for three days after the packed ice theory, melting our theory in a puddle on the garage floor. Oh no, these things can’t be quite that simple.

Our theory came to a grinding (pardon the pun!) halt that day, as the dragging sound persisted. Ryan and I rarely made eye contact. He would start to talk about it and I would look out the window. “It’s Christmas. It’s the end of the month. This isn’t the right time.”

But when are these scenarios ever the right time? When is a good time to hear a dragging sound under you car?

I took it into the shop yesterday and got a twenty minute rundown of everything wrong with the car from their technician, just an hour later. The rear brakes were shot, but worse, the calipers were cracked and broken. The cost- $575. That would have to be done today.

The car is due for its 100K tune-up ($340), the car is leaking oil and requires a new timing belt ($1,200), the front brakes have 20% left on them ($240). All of these scenarios need to be happening within the next six months in order to keep my car running smoothly.

According to my calculations though, I just need the car to run another six years so that we can pay down all of our debts. Six years seems like twenty now that I receive the estimate.

I agree to the rear brakes and then wonder what is the next best step to take. Do I ditch the car (a ’99 Subaru Outback) or do I pay up and trudge on with my goals in mind?

Despite the bleakness of this, here is what I was thankful for:

1. It is the end of the month and Ryan is only paid once a month. This is a very lean time for us, and we were able to pay for this repair out of our account without putting it on the credit card. Although I felt sick as I handed my debit card over, I knew that we had that money.

2. Here is why we had the money…I have this site. No, I don’t make enough for a full-time income, no I am not rolling in it (by any means- see above for car description for further clarification) but I am a contributer to this household. A little pipe dream paid for my beat-up Subaru to have a little surgery. That made me feel really good. I realize my husband pays for everything else, but when it comes to emergency situations like these, my paycheck is the one that pays the bills.

So we ponied up the money and I have my car back and now we are faced with the decision on how to proceed. We sat down and decided that Ryan could definitely fix the front brakes, but a new timing belt and small oil leak would need to be done by the pros. And a 100K tune-up…well, don’t all cars need that?

With ten more payments to go, do I pay up or start hunting for something else? Sound off!


16 Comments

Comments

  1. 1
  2. 2

    The car my husband had when we got married required lots of work on it in the last year before we sold it. We spent probably $2-$4,000 on it. I was so mad when we wound up having to sell it because it just wasn’t worth the $1-$2,000 more work it needed. I wish we hadn’t spent any money on it in that last year and had sold it right then and there.

    That being said, I honestly don’t know much about cars. I just know that I was mad at having spent so much money on the car to only get an extra year out of it. Maybe ask yourself a similar question? Also, would you get enough selling it to finish paying it off?

    The reason we finally decided to sell it was that we couldn’t see putting more money into it, but we needed something more reliable, because I had just gotten pregnant. We didn’t want something that would break down in the winter with a baby in the car.

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  3. 3

    I’m sorry about the car-related headaches! I know that I would sell the car in a heartbeat, because the peace of mind would be everything to me (but then I live in LA). And my husband and I know next to nothing about cars. Your situation sounds a little different, at least in terms of what you are capable of doing yourselves. You might find this Frugal Duchess post on when to buy a new car helpful. Sorry I can’t be of more help. Good luck!

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  4. 4

    That sounds like a LOT for a tune-up. We pay maybe $80. Two suggestions: Ask LOTS of people who they have for their mechanic and if they could recommend him. Second: Do NOT go by the word of ONE mechanic – get several opinions if at all possible. Word of mouth is the best advertisement. Those big-”box” stores in particular, are very bad/expensive. Try to find an independent mechanic. Also, a “small” oil leak is often very “do-able” so long as you check your oil periodically to be sure “small” is really “small”. Hope this helps. Oh, yes, be careful about people with “scare tactics.”
    Vicky

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  5. 5

    We’re dealing with the same questions- on when to replace a vehicle, with our 15-year-old Civic- just not with the same impending repairs. The catch: the car we are planning on replacing it with is a Subaru Forester or Outback… you’re making me rethink that decision ;-)

    As for the repairs- all the quotes seem a bit high. The tune-up and brakes are more of a maintenance thing than something that’s “broken”. Make sure the brakes are done on-time, or rotors will have to be replaced too, which makes the bill much higher. For the “tune-up”- ask what all they plan to check and replace, and pick and choose the critical things rather than everything on the 100K to-do list.

    My husband’s a “car guy” and thinks Subarus are good cars, so, if we were in your place, we’d probably make the repairs and expect to drive the car another 30,000+ miles (2-3+ years). That said, we’re also the ones driving the Civic my family bought when I was in third grade… so we keep cars for a while.

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  6. 6

    You guys are great! I always learn so much for the comments on here.

    Vicky- I just posted to my mom’s group loop to see if anyone knows of a good fair mechanic in town. I can’t recall all of the things that he said would need to be done, but I am pretty sure that belts were also needing to be replaced, which might help explain the high quote. I will keep checking around.

    Joanna- I really and truly love my Subaru. We are past 100K miles and just beginning to have problems with things going wrong. I had heard that the belts really start going at this stage, which is why the timer belt thingamabob (love my technical terms?) is a big and necessary expense.

    Silver- That REALLY stinks. I would be mad too!!

    CFO- Thank you for the link. I love Sharon and I will go and read that post!

    Lylah- Thank you for the sweet compliments! Your site is so great too!

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  7. 7

    Ok, I don’t know much about cars either. Does it have a standard transmission? 100,000 – 130,000 miles is when these need to be replaced/have a rebuilt one put in. You would need to consider this in your six-more-years plan. I would probably do the absolute necessary repairs then sell it when it’s paid off, then buy something reasonable used that you can afford (no loan). Do you forsee a tax refund? I HATE car repairs and expenses but somehow I do see it as a necessity (don’t throw anything at me!). :)

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  8. 8

    I’d keep the car. It is common to replace the clutch and the timing belt just after 100,000 miles, but then it will most likely only require minor maintenance after that.
    Be sure that when you have any noise you not ignore it again, and if your engine ever sounds funny stop immediately and don’t drive anymore till you check the oil. I burned up an engine that way.

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  9. 9

    I agree- shop around, many of the “chain” type auto places have a standard “sell sheet” that they go through with just about all customers- things you “need done now!” and the prices are inflated. The dragging sounds like it could be a caliper or it could be one of your CV boots needs to be replaced, but find a mechanic that many folks you know go to- good place to ask is around church! Also the time to think new car is when you have to put more money into it then you would get out of it if it were totalled in an accident- this includes payments, etc. When you do decide to look for a new car- think warranty- who has the best- Honda and Kia have the best out there right now, Kia’s are about 10K less then Honda’s. It is hard taking on a new payment when you almost have it paid off, I know from first hand experience. But I put so much money into my car trying to keep it running and then the motor blew and I was out a lot more then it was worth.

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  10. 10

    Hi Amy! Sorry all of this is going on. We had a 1997 Chevy Tahoe since 1998. It had 214,000 miles on it. The tansmission was going out. The computer chips were going out and it needed to be repainted. We got rid of it last January (2007).

    However, hubby drives a 1999 Chevy pick-up. It has miles about 97,000on it. He drives it 70 miles a day back and forth to work. It needs to be tuned up too. That will be about $200. The u-joint needs to be replaced. The accelator needs work, it sticks, also the back glass needs to be resealed. It has been paid off for about a year and a half or so. We will keep it for at least until 2009. Probably 2010. Forsure until the transmission starts to go.

    We will pay cash for the next truck. Just as we did for the Durango back when we replaced the Tahoe. I refuse to have another vehicle payment.

    I think I would keep it, just expect that once payments are made is about the time that repairs will start needing to be made. Just a rule of thumb to go by. I’ll be praying for you. Blessings on your family!

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  11. 11

    We are at a point where we’re asking this question as well. Our 97 Bonneville has nearly 139,000 miles on it. We have put several thousand into it in the six years we’ve owned it, but it was paid off over a year ago and we’d like to keep it for at least another year. We have NOT done regular tune-ups, but have kept the oil changed as suggested. We fixed the engine issue that happens to Bonnevilles a few years back so that should be good and we just did the radiator. I would suggest getting the belts replaced and the brakes. Forego the tune-up until you have the money saved or at all. Most cars do not need the regular tune-ups that are recommended, that is just something they do to get more money out of you. I’m also with the suggestions of others to get a second opinion on what exactly needs to be fixed. Ask the repair place (bluntly, if necessary) what is needed to keep the vehicle safe on the roads. Everything else is just superficial at this point.

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  12. 12

    Ahhh Amy! We JUST went through the same thing last week with my minivan (2000 Chevy) and I only have 7 more car payments and was hoping to make it without any crisis but it wasn’t to be…that’s always the way!

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  13. 13

    Of course I agree with everyone as far as shopping around on the repair prices.

    But as for the keep it or not issue, My husband always suggests that you look at this as a “payment” issue. Let me explain.

    Try to figure out what the monthly payment & insurance would be on a new vehicle. Then look at how much your current payment & insurance are. Take the total cost of repairs that need to be done, average them out over the year (ie divide by 12) and add it to the current payment and insurance.

    Which is less? If the new car payment and insurance is less, than that’s the way to go. If the old car is less, than keep it.

    Once you have car that is owned free and clear you look at the “average” amount of money spent on repairs. As long as it is less than a car payment, you are still ahead.

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  14. 14

    Wow Amy! What horrible timing for that to happen! I had a similar problem in November (the week before my dd’s big sleepover bash) and an engine pulley went in my 99 minivan…6 payments to go, so we are trying to make it through!! Lucky for you that you had the extra money to pay for it!! Gotta love the internet for the opportunities it offers us :)

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  15. 15

    A couple of things:

    A. Subarus have a reputation for running 200,000+. You should have no problem keeping it running.

    B. It is never cheaper to replace a used car with a newer one, even if you have to rip out and replace the entire engine. The reason people think it is is because they are only looking at the monthly cost, and they get freaked out by the inevitable repair expenses. It is insane to try to avoid a $1000 repair by spending $20,000.

    C. All of those repair costs you quoted sound rather high, especially the 100,000 mile tune-up. I would definitely shop around. I got a quote like that for my car’s 60,000 tune-up from the dealership. I went to a garage down the way and got the same service for less than half the price.

    Good luck!

    Catherine Shaffer
    Wise Bread Contributor
    http://www.wisebread.com/catherine-shaffer

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  16. 16

    My 96 Subaru Legacy died 2 weeks ago. It had 170,000 miles on it and the transmission went out. Our other car (a Honda) has 210,000 miles on it so we decided to purchase a new car so we didn’t have to worry about our car breaking down. (we have a 2 month old so that played quite a bit in our decision) We will replace the transmission in the Subaru sometime this summer when we have some extra money. It is still a good car except for the transmission problem, lol. We have put almost no money in it up to this point and I think it will last us a few more years.

    On finding a mechanic, I have had great luck finding mechanics on the Car Talk website (website for the NPR show)

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